Gordon, admit it, it's a busted flush. Throw in the towel, guy, or turn them into a kebab shop chain. Do something. Anything. That's some scolding the latest Hardin's restaurant guide has on it's pages, served up tartly: "It is the disappointing standards at Ramsay's three most recent 'mass-market' openings which are most immediately concerning. Each of them - The Warrington, Devonshire House, and Foxtrot Oscar - is nominated in roughly one in every three of the survey reports they attract in the 'most disappointing meal of the year' category. These newcomers are so uninspired in concept and so erratic in performance that - if they were opened by independent operators - they would likely be closed within a year." Ouch...

The Devonshire I know pretty well; lived a street away from it for several months, eaten there plenty of times (o.k. when it was run by the last owner...). Not been there since it got Ramsified earlier this year, but know several who have. All been thumbs up reviews. I still occasionally roost around the corner and every time I've walked by it's always looked hale and hearty...though there was a lad yelling indecorously out of a first floor window early on Sunday morning. But who cares about that. It's the food that matters. Gordon still delivers a punch or so I've been told. When I can persuade a friend for a revisit, I'll be in a position to properly comment, but still I'd say The Devonshire has inspiration bubbling in and around. "So uninspired in concept..."? Where did that come from?